Days 27 and 28 - Kathmandu to Sydney

Days 27 and 28 - Kathmandu to Sydney

Our last day in Kathmandu as we fly out at 11.30pm for home. This morning K and I visited the Gardens of Dreams which was a peace of paradise amid a busy city. We then walked a fair way to Indra Chowk. This area consisted of narrow laneways brimming with people and bikes streaming along ancient buildings and temples. We again were constantly hounded by shop and street vendors, drug dealers, Holy men, scam tourust guides and women using the milk scam. It can be exhausting dealing with this all the time. Nevertheless, we did enjoy the craziness and the wonderful sights and experience.
By about midnight tomorrow we shall be putting our key in our own door and the next day returning to our developed world routines. But I speak for myself when I say that I will always carry the last month's experience with me. The great people I met, the amazing sights I hold and the memories I shared with my family will be with me forever. Thank you for following our adventure.

Day 26 - Kathmandu, Nepal

Day 26 - Kathmandu, Nepal

Another 11 hour journey back to Kathmandu on what is known as the Highway of Death. The roads have experienced recent flooding and landslides so covering 120 klms takes half a day. There are many wrecked vehicles along the road that are a testoment to its nickname. It can be a hairy ride with several near misses and a huge sigh of relief when we arrived in one piece.
Many of the trucks are decorated as are some market areas. There are many, many goats being herded on the roadside sprayed with different colours. These have come down from the mountains and will be sacrificed for Dashain a huge festival which starts today.  Dashain is the longest and the most auspicious festival in the Nepalese annual calendar, celebrated by Nepalese of all caste and creed throughout the country. The fifteen days of celebration commemorates a great victory of the gods over the wicked demons.  Thorough out the kingdom of Nepal the goddess Durga in all her manifestations are worshiped with innumerable pujas, abundant offerings and thousands of animal sacrifices for the ritual holy bathing, thus drenching the goddess for days in blood.

Day 25 - Kathmandu, Nepal

Day 25 - Kathmandu, Nepal
Sudo & I reached our accomodation just before lunch. Michael and the group made it just after lunch. It was great to catch up on stories and tales of poor fitness & injuries. I asked our CEO if I could leave before the group in the morning, he organised an early breaky for Sudo and I and we set off at 6.30am, exactly 1 hour before anyone else. I felt no pressure to keep up and once again I kissed Michael goodbye. The 3rd day was to take 7 hours to descend, more bloody hard work. It was pouring when we left, within no time I was saturated but was happy. Sudo started saying "excuse me" every 5 minutes to check my lower legs for leeches. At first I thought that was disgusting but soon became used to those suckers and didn't care less about how much blood they sucked. I must have had at least 50 on me throughout the day and scars remain today. At 1 point, I was leaning down to take a leech off me and as I stood up, a wild monkey was sitting on the path in front of me. That was an amazing site and hoped Finn and tilly would see it later. They never caught up to me, I arrived 75 mins before everyone else and felt so proud. I remember at one point, Sudo telling me " you are very strong today" that made me smile. This is my story which I have not embellished and will never again do this sort of difficult trek, I am in ore of Sir Edmund Hillary who climbed Everest, truly an amazing man. XxKarinne

Day 24 - Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Day 24 - Chitwan National Park, Nepal.

I said farewell to my new friends as they sat down for breakfast, once again we slung our bags over our shoulders and off we went. I had to pay 300 rupees for my accomodation which equated to just under $4. The next 2 hours was all upwards, again, my feet aching but I had set my mind too 'keep going and don't stop'. As we walked, I said to Sudo that I needed the toilet, his reply "long or short" I had never heard that expression before and thought for a moment. I answered 'long I was very embarrassed about revealing what I needed to do!!. I couldn't remember the last time I told someone I needed to do a No.2. There was no western toilet so just had to hover over a squat pit. This wasn't the first squat pit I had used in the last month. Try using a squat in a fast moving train that rocks all over the line.

Day 23 - Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Day 23 - Chitwan National Park, Nepal

It's stinking hot and my cold is worsening. It's horrible feeling like this in the heat. A seven hour drive finds us returning to the National Park for a two day stay over before returning to Kathmandu before flying home.
K has contemplated her last three days so her story follows:
My story of the 3 day trek from the foothills of the Himalayas. Day 1 was so hot with the sun beating down and the humidity unbearable. I had lathered myself in sunscreen and aeroguard. About 1/2 hour into the trek, I was sweating like a pig and began crying as the creams had dribbled into my eyes and they were stinging, I already had regrets and wondered how I was going to continue. My eyes were killing me and I hadn't mentally prepared for this 4 out of 5 level of difficulty trek. With each step I took, it was so hard and we had an 8 hr walk ahead of us. I took all my emotions out on Michael and apologized later for my tantrum. Each time I looked up, I could only see more stairs, rocks and no reprieve for flat ground. We walked across flowing rivers, landslides and I felt like I was 3 years old again, stepping in large puddles rather than avoiding them. We stopped a few times on our way up for a toilet and drink break and to sit for a moment was heaven. The scenery is amazing, just like the National geographic books show us. As we continue walking up hill, we pass through villages and children yell out 'namesta', everyone is so friendly. Just after lunch, Finn complained of cramping abdo pain and I felt like vomiting, our guides, porters and CEO were concerned about us and went into overdrive when I eventually could go no further. I said " this is it, no more, I could feel my heart beat in my ears and my naughty lifestyle in my younger years had done me no favours in the fitness arena!!. So, I signed a declaration to say, I was leaving the group and would take a different route and spend the first night elsewhere with my porter 'sudo'. Michael quickly took some of his belongings out of the duffel bag, we kissed and went our separate ways. Finn continued with Michael and tilly had no idea i was leaving as she was too far ahead. Sudo had limited English but I managed to communicate my needs. I felt no shame when I left the group, I had done my very best and could climb no further up. Sudo and I continued on our own journey for approximately the next 3-4 hours. We took a break for 15 minutes after 2 hrs and I layed down on my tummy on a bench seat and fell asleep, I was awoken by Sudo calling "jum jum" come on. That small nap was heaven. I threw my back pack over my shoulders and Sudo put my duffel bag on his back and we continued on the journey. Along the way, Sudo would hold out his hand to help me with the difficult areas, he is such a gentle and beautiful soul. He would often point me in the easier walking direction but I still felt every step was difficult. , I wished I had left my watch at home as I would look down to read we had only walked 10 minutes, rather than the hour I had wished for. Sudo picked fresh beans and we ate them together. I asked Sudo "how much further" he replied "only 2 hours". We walked through many villages and sometimes a cow or dog would follow in our footsteps for a while, the Nepalese are such beautiful happy people, always smiling and greeting us along the way. We finally arrived at our village accommodation, where I plonked myself on a chair, removed my shoes and began massaging my feet, I planned to stay put in that chair as Sudo brought me over a milk coffee. As I took a sip, the heavens opened up and it bucketed down. The mountains, plants and wild life deserved a drink whilst I sat and couldn't move. I told Sudo " I loved him" he giggled. I wondered what he thought as we had broken from the group and there seemed to be only us 2 at the homestay. Just then, a couple from England walked over, they too had just arrived. They had been treking for the past 6 days from Base camp, and had not showered, I did not raise an eyebrow as I too was not going to shower. They are young doctors, so we shared over dinner all our hospital stories and the differences in our medical systems. I finally went to bed at 8pm. I asked Sudo to knock on my door at 6.30 to be ready for breakfast at 7 and we would then leave at 7.30am for our 2 hour walk upwards to meet the rest of the group later in the day.

Day 22 - Pokhara, Nepal

Day 22 - Pokhara, Nepal
A seven hour trek through the foothills of the Himalayas and my shoulder is sore as are my legs. K left an hour before us to get a head start. It rained the entire 7 hours and I was so cautious not to slip again. After stopping to take photos I found myself the only one around where the silence was deafening. It was one of those rare moments that despite the injuries, cold, leaches and rain nothing was going to steal this feeling that screamed contentment and being at one with nature. The queen of leaches was Tilly but I wasn't far behind her in terms of attracting the scoundrals.
We returned to our hotel and hot running showers which felt so, so good.

Day 21 - Landruk, Nepal

Day 21 - Landruk, Nepal

Only a three and a half hour descent and climb today but it was in heavy rain. This also took casualties. Til and Finn slipped as did I twice. Second time was on my shoulder which is quite sore. On top of this my cold is worsening and I have a touch of diahorria. We caught up with K at the next guesthouse who had done the hour half climb before us so it is good to be back together.

Day 20 - Grandruk, Nepal

Day 20 - Grandruk, Nepal

Trekked for seven and a half hours and climbed almost 13000 steps all uphill. The Nepalese have a lose interpretation of stairs as these are more like rocks lying on each other. It didn't come without its casualties. First Finn came down with stomach cramps and couldn't move. After a visit to the toilet and a Coke he was on the mend. Next victim was K who, like a car that's run its last mile refused to go any further. Another easier route was sought and after quickly transferring some of my contents into the kids bags, K was off guided by a porter to another location for the night. I'm proud I did this first day for the view was worth the agony. I have the making of a flu so getting caught in a stormy downpour will always help to cure it. I lie in a pretty rough mountain room typing this but lying in this bed is so, so nice. Every muscle aches and every bone is sore and I understand there's more of the same tomorrow. I think we'll need a holiday after this episode.

Day 19 - Pokhara, Nepal

Day 19 - Pokhara, Nepal

We have returned to Pokhara to start our 3 day trek. We climb to about 2100 metres so it's up, up up. The scenery is supposed to be spectacular so should be well worth it. No internet for the next 3 days.

Days 17 and 18 - Kathmandu, Nepal

Days 17 and 18 - Kathmandu, Nepal

It's difficult to walk a metre without being harassed by someone wanting to sell something. Whether its a taxi or rickshaw ride, shop goods, musical instruments or drugs they all have a unique speal.
We changed hotels today and I write this lying in a pool of sweat as there is no air conditioner nor fan in our room. I'd pay good money for just a gentle breeze but a cold shower will have to suffice.
Visited Durbur Square - the old city with many temples dating back to the 11th century. One was destroyed in the 2015 earthquake that killed almost 10000 people. Repairs to ancient temples are still continuing.
We then visited Bhaktapur with an amazing wood carved palace in Durbur Sqaure. Next to visit the Bodhnath Stupa which is the largest Buddist Stupa I'm the world. A very busy day.

Day 16 - Kathmandu, Nepal

Day 16 - Kathmandu, Nepal

Up at 5am to catch the Everest flight plane. We were so lucky in that we had clear skies. This was amazing and one of our top travelling experiences. We were given champaign on the flight and even a certificate for our efforts.
We chilled out until lunch and then explored some of the local shops. Most of our group is still here so one last dinner tonight.

Day 15 - Kathmandu, Nepal

Day 15 - Kathmandu, Nepal

I have never seen so many trucks but I guess when a country has no rail system everything must come by truck for the thirty odd million people of Nepal. Another long drive of almost 12 hours due to atrocious roads and massive congestion. Before reaching the hotel we stopped at The Monkey Temple known for many, many monkeys.
We had our final dinner together as a group but I'm sure We'll keep in touch. Such a wonderful bunch of people.
We'll spend a few days here and will return again before heading home.
We're up at 4.30am tomorrow to visit Mt Everest.

Days 13 and 14 - Pokhara, Nepal

Days 13 and 14 - Pokhara, Nepal
Our 6 hour drive from the Tharu Community to Pikhara turned into 12 hours due to landslides, broken down vehicles and really poor roads due to recent flooding. In the evening we visited the Sisterhood of Survivors - an organisation run by survivors of human trafficking. They taught us how to make momos and served a traditional Nepalese meal before providing a presentation on stats of human trafficking and what their organisation is doing to combat it.
The next day we arose at 4.30 to catch the sunrise at the Annapurna Himalayas but disappointingly there was too much cloud cover. We will come back here in a few days so hope to have better luck then.
Then off to the World Peace Pagoda which was constructed by Buddhist monks and is high on the hill so has amazing views. Tomorrow we head to Kathmandu.

Day 12 - Barauli, Nepal

Day 12 - Barauli, Nepal
During the morning we walked through the town before taking a safari in Chitwan National Park. This park is home to Sloth bears, crocodiles, monkeys, rhinos and tigers. We saw some bambi deer and a boar but the highlight was the rhino next to the river. Unfortunately no tigers. When driving through the small towns children everywhere waved to us in such excitment. In the evening we were treated with traditional dances were we also participated. It was a wonderful experience. Tomorrow we head to Pokhara but it will be a long trip due to the poor condition of roads due to the floods.

Day 11 - Barauli, Nepal

Day 11 - Barauli, Nepal
After a sleep in, we travelled about 4 hours to a lovely small community in Barauli. Nepal is much cleaner than India and nobody toots their horms here. It is a much slower pace. We rode push bikes to the boundary of Chitwan National Park to see the debris from the recent floods as well as the recent footprints of rhinos and tigers. It's very hot and very humid here with just a fan in our room so I don't plan on getting much sleep. We'll rest here for the next two days.

Day 10 - Lumbini, Nepal

Day 10 - Lumbini, Nepal
Up at 3.30am to catch trains, (no planes) and automobiles to Nepal. This took just on 16 hours. The line of trucks waiting to enter Nepal stretched for 28 kilometres due to the back log of goods due to recent flooding. We passed some areas that were still sandbagged and saw debris several metres above the road. K, the kids and I had visa issues as apparently I had not paid for them but to my recollevtion I had. We had to reapoly there and then and after some money changed hands we crossed the border. On the way to the hotel we stopped to visit the birthplace of Buddha born around 2500 years ago.which is a World Heritage site.

Day 9 - Varanasi, India

Day 9 - Varanasi, India
A 4.45am start to watch the sunrise on the Ganges by boat. A truly magical experience. Puttered along to see many people bathing and washing clothes as well as several more cremations. Observed (note didn't participate) in a mass yoga session which was very different from the ones at home. In the afternoon, K and Til visited a textile factory where saris are made. This is our last day in India for tomorrow it's a long journey to Nepal.

Day 8 - Varanasi, India

Day 8 - Varanasi, India

The train last night was running nearly 2 hours late not arriving until midnight. The station was mad with people everywhere. With no other tourists in sight except for one lonely traveller we drew constant attention from the inquisitive to those begging for money. After a 14 hour train ride on a rough sleeper carriage we arrived in Varanasi. This is the oldest, continually inhabited city in the world. It is also the most holy city in India. And just when we thought we had experienced sensory overload already, this city really is extremely busy, noisy and chaotic. It is also really heating up and the humidity is extreme. We caught a rickshaw to see the Ganges which was much cleaner than I thought. We caught a boat and sent a lighted rose of flowers floating in the river after making a wish. We saw many waterside cremations and spent time watching a ceremony. Up early at 4am to explore this fascinating city further.

Day 7 - Orchha, India

Day 7 - Orchha, India
A rest day to recharge the old batteries before catching the overnight train to Varanasi at 8pm. K and Til did a cooking class in someone's home and brought back some of their efforts which was eaten for lunch. Still hot and humid about 35.

Day 6 - Orchha - India

Day 6 - Orchha, India

We're really loving India. We've travelled quite widely but this country stands out on its own. The people, places and sensory overload is fantastic. Up reasonably early to catch the train to Jhansi. It's quite a thing to experience the Indian railway system at work. There a many, many people on the station and some of them put the pressure on to purchase their wares. Some will jump aboard between stations in the anticipation of a quick sale. It is very hot and humid already but we are some of the lucky ones that will be spoilt with an air conditioned carriage.
5 hours later we arrive to the noise and smell of Jhansi. We prepared for the 30 minute drive to Orchha but this was extended somewhat due to our tuk tuk being on its last legs. It wouldn't move past first gear so even push bikes were passing us. We finally arrived at our hotel where we dropped off our bags and walked the small town. We visited three Mahals dating the mid 16th century.
We played street cricket with the locals whilst K and Til had henna applied.
After this, we enjoyed a Puja ceremony (Hindu prayer ceremony). Just up the road, children are put to bed on the footpath sleep and adults sleep on top of cars or in basic makeshift shelters and some with nothing at all. It's so hard to return to a lovely air conditioned room with a full belly and a showered body after seeing this. We are certainly incredibly lucky and should never forget that.
Very limited internet so can't posts hardly any pics.

Day 3 - Jaipur - India

Day 3 - Jaipur, India
We explored a little more of Delhi before a six hour drive to Jaipur which was an intense experience. Went for a walk to the markets of the Pink City despite its colour being more terracotta. This is the capital of Rajasthan. Plenty of monkeys, pigs, cows and camels. There are lots of kites being flown from rooftops which offer a form of serenity from the chaos below. Then it was tuktuks to Raj Mandir Cinema - an art deco theatre to watch a newly released Bollywood film. Although not in English it wasn't difficult to get the gist. The movie goers provided equal entertainment with their cheering, whistling, yelling out and clapping during certain scenes. They really get into it. We'll explore more of this effervescent city tomorrow. Happy father's day to all the Aussie dads.

Day 5 - Agra - India

Day 5 - Agra, India

Up at five for a four hour drive to  visit Agra Fort which took 95 years to build. An amazingly large fort made from red sandstone and white marble. Then we visited the Taj Mahal. This is, as you can imagine, India's most visited site and half of India was there to see it. So we ducked a dived other tourists whilst we did likewise with the rain which only lasted 10 minutes. The Taj Mahal took 22 years to build and is indescribable. An amazing place to visit both inside and out and I just couldn't stop taking pics of it. Tomorrow we head Orchha by train.
Sorry no images. Can't upload due to poor Wi-Fi.

Day 4 - Jaipur - India

Day 4 - Jaipur, India

We're staying in a 17th century palace which is wonderful. Visited Hawa Mahal known as the Palace of the Winds. The elaborately carved facade enabled the purdah ladies to watch the goings on in the streets below without being seen.
It's very hot and humid but luckily no rain. Another interesting drive to the palace where three lanes somehow accomodate five cars. There is a lot of poverty here but also wealth where often this contrast can be next door to one another. Up at 4 am tomorrow to head to Agra home of the Taj Mahal.

Day 2 - Delhi - India

Landed at New Delhi around 8pm and in a taxi by 9.30. Quite warm, very busy and everyone tooting their horns. Our driver appeared to be in a mad rush and certainly didn't believe in speed limits or indicator use.

Approaching a major intersection is not for the faint hearted where the first to flinch will never get across. It really is a matter of bluff where one just has to force their way.

In bed by midnight but I'm on no sleep which is not unusual after lengthy flights. The medieval air conditioner competed with the sounds of constant tooting car horns.

In the morning, I decided to go for a walk with my camera and within two blocks I was constantly harassed by tuk tuk drivers and shoe shiners. The streets are a buzzing with traffic and horns and the people are a plenty but there is something attractive about the organised chaos that I just don't see at home.
As per my old travelling blogs we always have the number 21 appear. This time our room numbers are 212 and 213 - both with a 21!

K and I went to the markets to explore their wares but the constant harassment by street vendors wore us down. K later braved this again by taking the kids shopping for clothes.
Out to dinner for  a spot of Indian of course dodging bikes and tuk tucks. Getting good at this already.

It's cold showers and questionable food at the Perfect Hotel which it is far from but it all just adds to experiencing something which screams India and I wouldn't have it any other way.